WINTER SOLSTICE - 2014

Yesterday we celebrated the solstice at the cabin...shortest day of the year.  We have turned this into an annual event, and work to celebrate the summer solstice as well.

It is fun to watch the sun patterns over the course of a year.  It helps to understand sun shade and shadow patterns as the planet orbits el sol.

Yesterday, however, there was no sun to see - just light.  It snowed and the temperature was great, and the fire in the firepit warmed the soul...and...

thanks to the kids - Tatiana, Gay and Jordan...we now have the first snowman to greet visitors to the cabin since we began our stewardship of the site.

GARDEN 1.1

The initial objective of the garden work this summer was to build four raised beds that would be of a height that one could sit on a stool and garden comfortably.  

Part of the planning discussion took place in the presence of my good friend Terrill Samura (Samura and Associates Landscape Architecture).  These discussions focussed on the importance of organic methods and strategies and ergonomics.  The ergonomics piece had to do with the width of the beds so the full bed could be reached when accessing from both sides.  We determined the maximum width of a bed to be 4' which allowed a 2' reach from either side.  My arm - when fully extended - has a 29-30" reach.  My wife has about a 27" reach.  

Other considerations in the planning included:

• The development of a possible future chicken coop and making sure we have room for it if we do that
• Good sun
• Vertical gardening (trellises)
• Ability to get a garden cart between the beds
• Irrigating each bed

The initial structural work was to set 24 posts.  Six of the posts were set to a height of approximately 7.5 feet (trellis structure).  The balance were set to receive the bed sides.  

The treated posts were set in the ground with dirt compaction.  Each post had dirt set in the holes with water to fully compact the dirt in approximately 6" lifts.  The dirt was compacted until it was real hard - then the next lift was done.  Compaction was done with a 2 x 4 and a 1 x 2 for narrow openings until each post was vertical (verified with a level) and solid.

It took a couple of weekends to get all this done.  Once the posts were in we could construct the beds and irrigation systems.

GARDEN 1.0

THE GARDENING BEGINS

We are getting pretty deep into winter season right now and I haven't written anything of late.  I got really busy with work - Ago Studios - and getting things done on the cabin like electrical and framing inspections and a few other things until early summer.  So I'm going to back track a bit and discuss the garden that we built this summer.  I'm going to write a few articles on the garden and I begin here....

The garden has been formulating for a while.  We always knew it would be in the Northeast corner.  It will be a good and organic garden.  It is nicely laid out to take advantage of the sun and shade.  This will - I think - be a healing garden with good food grown in a creative space.

It was wide open when we took over stewardship of this land.  The deer had free range - a problem when you want a really good garden.

Step One:  A summer ago I took advantage of some nearby road construction and gleaned some very stout 8 ft high wildlife fencing that was being removed from the side of the interstate prior to roadway construction.  That fencing was stockpiled for the garden perimeter

Step Two:  Last fall I set the treated 4 x 4 posts for the garden fence along the East edge of the garden and at the corners and  intermediate spacings along the West side.   In doing this I had to make a modification to the adjacent barbed wire fence so the deer would not be able to jump the fence to get into our garden space.

I verified this was a successful strategy.  Over the course of the winter there were no visible deer tracks or signs they had traveled through and my string sensor stretched between the fences stayed in place the entire winter.  My deer behavior modification worked...and continues to work.

Step Three:  This spring we installed the wildlife fence on the East side.  Later in the summer we installed the fence material on the West side and began to take control of the area.  Taking control of the space is an important concept because there are large 4 legged animals that roam this area.  We don't want them in the garden...and I do have a story about the fence and it's ability to contain an animal.

Step Four:

We came up with a very cost-effective construction technique for raised beds using treated 2 x 10's, pond liner fabric and treated 4 x 4's.  The bed construction began with the setting of the 4 x 4's.

An important reminder to all you who enjoy the value of building for yourself - LOCATE YOUR UTILITIES.

In my particular case I needed to locate two 2-1/2" electrical service conduits we installed last fall to make sure I knew what needed to be done if we set posts over the conduits - and sure enough we did.  I set stakes with orange flagging identifying the location and depth of the conduits and went to work. 

I then hand dug 24 holes with a post hole digger to specific depths and in a specific grid to prepare to set the 4 x 4 posts that were to receive the sides and remaining irrigation and assemblies so we can grow great rhubarb and garlic.

CABIN 1.12 CABIN BATHROOM

Sometimes one picture is all that is needed to express something.  In the case of the cabin and the re-installation of the systems...I think this is it.

The bathroom is roughed in!

This means all the plumbing has been installed.  The electrical is roughed in, with functioning lights, The water closet functions, the temporary sink functions.  We can actually wash hands in warm water for the first time since we purchased the structure!

So...in this case...the picture is worth a thousand words!

CABIN 1.12: SYSTEM COMMISSIONING - PLUMBING

After a lot of work to remove and replace the old systems of the cabin I am starting to get some function back in the cabin.

Last fall I removed over 650 pounds of old cast iron waste line systems from the cabin.  It all went to the recycling business here in Eagle, and in one of these posts I'll provide a summary of that recycling effort.

So, after removing the waste line and installing a new sewer line to the cabin I have FINALLY, gotten the new plumbing waste system installed.  Yesterday I tested the system.  That to say I am now starting to get the plumbing systems back on line.   

When finally installed I want to make sure the integrity of the system is sound before putting it to full time / permanent use.

This is the concept of commissioning.  

There are many ways to commission systems and there are standards that are  developed for commissioning especially when testing the integrity of building systems on larger projects. Commissioning is an integral aspect of LEED projects and is now a significant part of the IGCC (International Green Construction Code).  

So as I get the active working systems of the cabin installed and back working I want to test them to make sure they are working before they are finally put to use - commissioning.

I will also note that I have asked the local building official Bob Kohrman - Town of Eagle Building Official - a lot of questions.  He has kindly indulged me and has helped a lot.   

If you are like me and doing work yourself, don't hesitate to ask questions of your building official or inspector.  They really do want to help you get the installation right.  Codes are codes, like them or not, they are in place for our safety.  And, remember, the systems you install now will more than likely be in place for a long time - fifty years maybe or more.  We need to get them right to insure the life of and safety of the system. 

Waste lines are gravity systems.  That means they must slope to allow gravity to work and move the water and waste through the system by sloping the lines.  So I wanted to check slope and the integrity of the system.

The methodology I used was simple:
1.  Pipe slope:  

• I have a pretty good eye and most of the installed system looked to have a slope that was equal to or greater than 1/4" per foot.  One section, though, looked a little more level than the rest. 
• The test method:  a bullet level.  When I set the small level on the suspect area the bubble moved to the right indicating there was a reasonable slope (at least 1/4" per foot).  I accepted that section.
• I checked another couple of areas and felt pretty good about the installed nature of the system.

2.  System integrity

• Water test:
• This was a real simple test.  I put a hose in each of four points in the system that would have a fixture that would be an entry point for water or waste running through them.  The kitchen sink, the bathroom lavatory, the water closet and  the washer / dryer.
• I started the hose out at low flow, primarily so I could make sure the hose would stay in the orifice at first and then as I increased the amount of water running through the system.  So ultimately I want from a low flow to maximum water volume at each point.
• During each elevation of water volume I put my hand under each joint that would be receiving water flow to feel for any moisture - any moisture.  I did not want a stray drop of water coming through the pipes for obvious reasons.
• One of those reasons was that when I opened the floor I found multiple breaks in the old galvanized piping and a lot of damp soil.  I don't want that in my crawl space.
• I also visually inspected each joint with a bright flashlight to make sure I saw no water dripping.
• The volume of water coming out of the hose was much more on a prolonged basis than the system would experience under normal operating conditions and thus was - in my professional opinion - a decent test to verify the system integrity.

As I bring the functions back to the cabin I will be commissioning each system to make sure it performs as intended before it gets to work under normal occupancy load.  It is important to do this while I still have openings in the floor so that I can reasonably access any area requiring adjustment to assure the integrity of the system prior to closing it up.

I will test the new plumbing supply lines in the same fashion.  

It is really important to note that a good commissioning of the system - no matter who installs the system - is important because whether owner installed (as is the case here) or a system installed by others (in this case the water supply plumbing) there is always the possibility a sweat joint or fitting did not get installed quite right in spite of the good intentions and craftsmanship of the tradesperson installing the system.  Especially in the case of plumbing, it is better to catch any leaks now - before putting the wall surfaces up - than finding them later with all the nasty stuff that comes with that discovery.  A plumber will appreciate the opportunity to address a pin hole leak now rather than later.

Commissioning Results:

The waste lines passed my inspection.  I observed both by visual and manual inspection of the systems. that there was no leaking in the system and the integrity of the system is sound.  I am therefore certifying the system ready for normal use.

      

CABIN: 1.11 INTERIOR PREP & FRAMING

It has been really great to get out of the crawl space, and get the structural work done so I can get to the point where the interior of the cabin begins to get put together.

The interior framing work began in early December.  It was really fun to cut interior framing studs on the porch in 15 degree weather - not really.  But it got done.  

A lot of framing was required because the original condition of the cabin had flat ceilings.  I removed those ceilings and am using the original roof structure as the ceiling in almost all areas.   This required new framing up high to provide nailing surfaces for interior finishes and framing for new insulation.  Existing framing that was somewhat old and questionable got an upgrade as well.

In the photo above, I'll note the installation of new 2x6 floor joists that were 'sistered' with existing to reduce the floor deflection in the bathroom area.  This will help in keeping the future tiling in the shower and bath area from cracking as a result of floor deflection.  Additionally I dropped the new floor sheathing down to be level with the top of the floor framing to allow for the installation of a new mudset sloped shower above.

SHOWER FRAMING FROM ABOVE

The shower floor framing will also allow for the installation of a linear drain and barrier free access.  Water will drain against the wall in the shower.

The finish framing in the bathroom is shown below.  There will be  a sliding door to separate the vanity area from the shower / water closet area with blocking to handle the sliding door hardware and provide additional stability to the new framing.

I have installed new interior framing in the new studio space for a number of reasons:

• There isn't a square corner in the place
• The walls are neither plumb nor level
• I needed space for new electrical without chopping into the existing structure to make that space
• New framing allows me to install new insulation to make the space more thermally efficient.

If you look closer at this photo you will see where there has been sealant applied to the cracks at the existing roof sheathing.  Sealant was also applied behind the rigid insulation (silver material in the photo) to seal the cracks a the original structure.  The new rigid insulation (3/4" polystyrene with a foil air barrier facing the interior of the space) adds additional insulative capability to the structure...and it is relatively inexpensive and easy to do.  The rigid insulation is behind the framing allowing for the installation of new electrical (yellow wiring) and new cat-6 communications cable (white wiring) for video, internet and intranet communications within the structure.

The new framing is also plumb, and square.  The sills and headers were all aligned with a laser level so visually there is harmony in the space.  While this is a lot of work it will pay off when the drywall gets applied. 

One additional benefit of the interior framing is that the window cavities will be deeper with deeper sills and greater architectural character - which as an architect I really like.

Finally, the new crawl space access was activated in the new utility area.  The new opening provides a 3' x 3' opening into the crawl space with a new access ladder so a new furnace or any other piece of equipment can be removed and installed - EASILY - without having to open the old ratty panel that was directly in front of the kitchen sink.  

The existing floor framing in the kitchen was reinforced including the installation of new ledgers along the existing concrete foundation to provide additional bearing for existing and new joists.  The framing at the old crawl space opening was awful.  The floor is much more structurally sound now than before.  

Thanks to Ron Hedrick - Hedrick Construction - for loaning me the roto-hammer used to install the new wedge anchors for the new ledgers at the foundation wall.

That old opening - while not yet completely removed is not active and will receive new sheathing and wood flooring when complete. 

I must note the crawl ladder sits on a small concrete pad secured into place with field crafted metal straps that were installed by my daughter.  I will digress for a moment.

Every now and then on a jobsite when you do it the way I am doing I get an opportunity to introduce my daughter to more construction.  In this case concrete.  Late in December we poured the last concrete in the crawl space.  Becky wanted to learn how to do concrete and we did just that.  We schlepped 10 bags of quikrete into the crawl, a wheelbarrow, shovel, hose and trowels and poured concrete.  

It is really fun to watch the light go on when a young person gets introduced to concrete for the first time and watches it turn from sandy aggregate to liquid mud to stuff that is hard as a rock. 

I then showed her how to cut and bend a piece of Simpson metal strapping to set into the concrete so it could be used to secure the base of the new crawl ladder.  I held the ladder in place while she set the straps into the concrete...and voila, the new ladder is now secure.

Coming soon...the new tankless water heater and plumbing, and more on the systems.

CABIN 1.10: WATER SYSTEMS

For the last 2 1/2 months I have been working inside the cabin.  The work inside has been to prepare the cabin for new systems. 

In previous posts I noted the site utility work.  That work is preparing the way for a number of important improvements that have taken place.

One of the key elements to the interior work was the excavation of the crawl space. (See Cabin 1.8 - 09.03.13)


Water:

We brought a new 1" line in into the building that replaced the old 3/4" galvanized line.  The meter has been brought into the building.  We had the town check the water pressure at the street and it was 80 lbs so a pressure reduction valve was installed to get the pressure down to around 65 lbs.  

I am a systems guy.  I want flexibility in where and how to shut zones off to do repair work.  I have a main shutoff  within 6' of the foundation and a shut off just past the water meter so I can isolate this entire assembly.  From that point I have new shut off valves at the point where we run a line into the bathroom area - which will also provide water to the garden.  There is another valve to the kitchen and there will be another valve for the water heater.  There will then be a few other valves to isolate specific elements.

All this so that if there is a leak or water issue in one area, that area can be isolated without affecting water to the entire structure.

I also had the plumber (Burch Plumbing - Avon) install a drainback valve just before the meter so the entire system could be drained for repair purposes.  This is also helpful right now because I am keeping the cabin rather cool and by draining water from the system to reduce the chances of any kind of freezing issue should the furnace go out.  It has been cold this winter and an additional layer of insurance is prudent.

So, by carving out a crawl space where there was not one a year ago we have created an environment which has saved us a lot of money.

• The excavator punched the new 1" line through into the crawl space in 10 minutes
• The plumber was able to access every area to install a new plumbing system in about 5 hours.
• The excavator punched the new sewer line into the building in about 10 minutes when it reached the cabin.
• The sewer pipe is completely accessible underneath the floor.

The crawl excavation will continue to save a lot of money as we put more systems in and we are able to access systems as future needs occur.

After the new water line was all connected I tested the water pressure.  I opened the hose bibb I had installed last summer.  The volume of water coming out of the hose bibb was significantly increased.  I felt I was going to power wash the apron in front of the cabin with the new water pressure.  A significant improvement.

CABIN 1.9: NEW WINDOWS

One of the goals before the snow fell this winter was to get the exterior envelope modified to receive new windows.  The original configuration of windows and doors is shown below.

Original South Elevation (Deck)

Original East Elevation

Original West Elevation

The existing windows were poorly performing double glazed vinyl - depending on where you looked.  The windows on the east side were single glazed aluminum framed windows.  The doors were single glazing - if glass remained in the doors.

When I talk about the building envelope and windows there are several factors affecting the envelope.  First, I basically gutted the interior.  I removed all the drywall and old insulation.  The insulation needed to be removed as there was plenty of evidence of rodents and this needed to be addressed.  

Removing the insulation allowed for an inspection of the existing construction in order to develop a strategy for tightening the envelope.  In an earlier post I demonstrated the nature of the envelope and I believe I compared it to a giant sieve.  

So the windows are a part of the strategy to tighten this structure up.

Realizing I had a fairly short window to order, receive and install windows I had to make some decisions on window type and supplier.  I sought pricing from two window companies I have used in the past and - in this case - took the low price.  But let's understand what that meant.

The window specification was a high performance window.  Low U value, a reasonable SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) and a trustworthy manufacturer and as much VT (visible  transmission of light) through the windows as I could get.

We ordered our windows from Milgard.  The windows are a high performance fiberglass triple glazed window.  U=.31 / SHGC = .24 / VT=.40.  I used three types of windows:  fixed, casement and awning.  The windows were selected and sized to respond to the structure, promote natural ventilation and views.

The windows were ordered in early September and the fun began.  The framing occurred while we were making the site ready for the excavation, removing trees and cutting steel, so there was a fair amount of activity.

I started on the East side and went around the building.  The entire elevation of the vestibule (East side) got re-framed.  I installed two windows (saved from the trailer) and re-located the door to the center of the elevation to help with the structural work to support the new roof ridge beam that was installed.

As a side note, the windows I saved from the trailer turn out to have been manufactured by Milgard.  I tracked the manufacturing numbers down and found them to be double glazed, low-e glazing in good condition.  Since the vestibule is ultimately going to be a greenhouse / airlock / storage area the re-purposing of the windows was very appropriate.

Re-Framing in Progress.

The bathroom and bedroom then received new openings for the new windows and a new exterior door while the old windows were removed, and those openings re-framed and covered.

West elevation with original window opening exposed.

When I got to the main area there were a few issues that required attention.  New openings were cut into the existing structure.  The new windows were sized to integrate with the existing structure, thus the pattern progression from small to large.  I utilized the existing opening and then expanded so that the log structure was minimally compromised.  The chain saw became an effective instrument of structural alteration.

The new framing was set into place with 5" long Simpson wood screws and construction adhesive.  The new window at the center of the roof gable aligned with the original window I discovered and exposed.  The window alignment allowed for structural framing to help support the structure of the new roof ridge beam and was ultimately tied together with a 10' long Simpson steel strap tie on either side adding structural integrity to the assembly.

Openings were cut and set for eight new windows in the main area - and a new door on the South to the deck.

The framing took about about five weeks.  It was what I call surgical framing.  Custom cuts, custom sizing to accommodate the existing framed openings that were closed up and the integration of the new framing with existing framing.  It didn't take an awful lot of material.  It took a lot of time to surgically alter the envelope.

The openings were ready to receive the windows when they arrived in late October.  The windows were installed in one weekend with the exception of the high gable end windows which were installed on a warm Saturday afternoon with the help of my labor pal Jason.

West elevation with new rough openings completed

So, in early November the openings had been completed windows were installed and a sense of accomplishment was temporarily acknowledged.  I beat the snow.

New windows at the West Elevation

New windows at South and East Elevation

A few observations and comments:

• The cabin became noticeably quieter when the new windows were installed.  Triple glazed windows eliminate a lot of outside noise.
• The new views are great and the space is much lighter.  The original windows in the main area had very low head heights.  With increased head heights and openings there is more natural daylight and the views to the South and West are really great - significantly better than the original space.
• The window ventilation is great. The high awning windows at the gables move a lot of air without making the space feel drafty.  This is a very successful effort to naturally ventilate the space.

I'll talk about the rest of the envelope work in a subsequent post.

SITE 1.9 - THE GARDEN PORTAL

The best part of winding the year up was the raising of the garden portal.  

As I have noted in previous posts, we are striving for sustainability on a lot of fronts.  I currently have an overflowing box of old nails, screws and fasteners I have kept while de-constructing the cabin interiors.  I am keeping track of the weight for future reporting purposes.

Part of our effort is the artistic side of the sustainability effort:  The garden portal.

Moving the steel

After some discussion our excavator - Matt Johnson - Johnson Excavating and Telecommunications of Eagle - determined the mini-ho would be the machine to move the steel - with help from the architect guiding it to its final location.  

And so on a reasonably warm late fall Friday morning we began the process.  

It involved moving the steel to previously dug holes for the main uprights,   I built a steel re-bar cage for each vertical leg and attached it prior to setting the steel in the holes.

Re-bar cages at the portal base with Matt Johnson supervising.

Temporary support of the portal

Once the steel was set in the holes and after the crew was fed a grilled burger and sides from the on-site grilling device we proceeded to pour the concrete foundation.  Rather than bring in a concrete truck we (Johnson Excavating, Hedrick Concrete Construction, and Ago Studios) mixed and poured 1-1/2 pallets of quik-crete bags in the holes.  It was a well orchestrated operation.  Matt cut the bags and poured them into the wheelbarrow.  Ron Hedrick and I than mixed the concrete and poured it in - 3 bags of concrete at a time.  We were done in about an hour...and it was a good pour.

Ron Hedrick of Hedrick Construction - Chris Green - Ago Studios after the pour.

To be sure everything set well and safely we left the mini-ho support of the portal in place for the weekend while the concrete cured and set.   I calculated that we poured about 2 yards of concrete at the portal.  It isn't going anywhere.

So as we move into 2014, the garden portal is in place ready to receive the fencing, gate assembly and to signify we are getting closer to getting onto the site.  

One of the best comments I fielded from one of the business folks in the town that came to visit was something along the lines of...'what the heck is that...it's like burning man!'.  

I'll take it.

...and as we exited 2013 the portal (re-purposed mobile home steel structure) stands on the site ready for duty!

Here's to 2014!