CABIN: 1.11 INTERIOR PREP & FRAMING

It has been really great to get out of the crawl space, and get the structural work done so I can get to the point where the interior of the cabin begins to get put together.

The interior framing work began in early December.  It was really fun to cut interior framing studs on the porch in 15 degree weather - not really.  But it got done.  

A lot of framing was required because the original condition of the cabin had flat ceilings.  I removed those ceilings and am using the original roof structure as the ceiling in almost all areas.   This required new framing up high to provide nailing surfaces for interior finishes and framing for new insulation.  Existing framing that was somewhat old and questionable got an upgrade as well.

In the photo above, I'll note the installation of new 2x6 floor joists that were 'sistered' with existing to reduce the floor deflection in the bathroom area.  This will help in keeping the future tiling in the shower and bath area from cracking as a result of floor deflection.  Additionally I dropped the new floor sheathing down to be level with the top of the floor framing to allow for the installation of a new mudset sloped shower above.

SHOWER FRAMING FROM ABOVE

The shower floor framing will also allow for the installation of a linear drain and barrier free access.  Water will drain against the wall in the shower.

The finish framing in the bathroom is shown below.  There will be  a sliding door to separate the vanity area from the shower / water closet area with blocking to handle the sliding door hardware and provide additional stability to the new framing.

I have installed new interior framing in the new studio space for a number of reasons:

• There isn't a square corner in the place
• The walls are neither plumb nor level
• I needed space for new electrical without chopping into the existing structure to make that space
• New framing allows me to install new insulation to make the space more thermally efficient.

If you look closer at this photo you will see where there has been sealant applied to the cracks at the existing roof sheathing.  Sealant was also applied behind the rigid insulation (silver material in the photo) to seal the cracks a the original structure.  The new rigid insulation (3/4" polystyrene with a foil air barrier facing the interior of the space) adds additional insulative capability to the structure...and it is relatively inexpensive and easy to do.  The rigid insulation is behind the framing allowing for the installation of new electrical (yellow wiring) and new cat-6 communications cable (white wiring) for video, internet and intranet communications within the structure.

The new framing is also plumb, and square.  The sills and headers were all aligned with a laser level so visually there is harmony in the space.  While this is a lot of work it will pay off when the drywall gets applied. 

One additional benefit of the interior framing is that the window cavities will be deeper with deeper sills and greater architectural character - which as an architect I really like.

Finally, the new crawl space access was activated in the new utility area.  The new opening provides a 3' x 3' opening into the crawl space with a new access ladder so a new furnace or any other piece of equipment can be removed and installed - EASILY - without having to open the old ratty panel that was directly in front of the kitchen sink.  

The existing floor framing in the kitchen was reinforced including the installation of new ledgers along the existing concrete foundation to provide additional bearing for existing and new joists.  The framing at the old crawl space opening was awful.  The floor is much more structurally sound now than before.  

Thanks to Ron Hedrick - Hedrick Construction - for loaning me the roto-hammer used to install the new wedge anchors for the new ledgers at the foundation wall.

That old opening - while not yet completely removed is not active and will receive new sheathing and wood flooring when complete. 

I must note the crawl ladder sits on a small concrete pad secured into place with field crafted metal straps that were installed by my daughter.  I will digress for a moment.

Every now and then on a jobsite when you do it the way I am doing I get an opportunity to introduce my daughter to more construction.  In this case concrete.  Late in December we poured the last concrete in the crawl space.  Becky wanted to learn how to do concrete and we did just that.  We schlepped 10 bags of quikrete into the crawl, a wheelbarrow, shovel, hose and trowels and poured concrete.  

It is really fun to watch the light go on when a young person gets introduced to concrete for the first time and watches it turn from sandy aggregate to liquid mud to stuff that is hard as a rock. 

I then showed her how to cut and bend a piece of Simpson metal strapping to set into the concrete so it could be used to secure the base of the new crawl ladder.  I held the ladder in place while she set the straps into the concrete...and voila, the new ladder is now secure.

Coming soon...the new tankless water heater and plumbing, and more on the systems.

CABIN 1.10: WATER SYSTEMS

For the last 2 1/2 months I have been working inside the cabin.  The work inside has been to prepare the cabin for new systems. 

In previous posts I noted the site utility work.  That work is preparing the way for a number of important improvements that have taken place.

One of the key elements to the interior work was the excavation of the crawl space. (See Cabin 1.8 - 09.03.13)


Water:

We brought a new 1" line in into the building that replaced the old 3/4" galvanized line.  The meter has been brought into the building.  We had the town check the water pressure at the street and it was 80 lbs so a pressure reduction valve was installed to get the pressure down to around 65 lbs.  

I am a systems guy.  I want flexibility in where and how to shut zones off to do repair work.  I have a main shutoff  within 6' of the foundation and a shut off just past the water meter so I can isolate this entire assembly.  From that point I have new shut off valves at the point where we run a line into the bathroom area - which will also provide water to the garden.  There is another valve to the kitchen and there will be another valve for the water heater.  There will then be a few other valves to isolate specific elements.

All this so that if there is a leak or water issue in one area, that area can be isolated without affecting water to the entire structure.

I also had the plumber (Burch Plumbing - Avon) install a drainback valve just before the meter so the entire system could be drained for repair purposes.  This is also helpful right now because I am keeping the cabin rather cool and by draining water from the system to reduce the chances of any kind of freezing issue should the furnace go out.  It has been cold this winter and an additional layer of insurance is prudent.

So, by carving out a crawl space where there was not one a year ago we have created an environment which has saved us a lot of money.

• The excavator punched the new 1" line through into the crawl space in 10 minutes
• The plumber was able to access every area to install a new plumbing system in about 5 hours.
• The excavator punched the new sewer line into the building in about 10 minutes when it reached the cabin.
• The sewer pipe is completely accessible underneath the floor.

The crawl excavation will continue to save a lot of money as we put more systems in and we are able to access systems as future needs occur.

After the new water line was all connected I tested the water pressure.  I opened the hose bibb I had installed last summer.  The volume of water coming out of the hose bibb was significantly increased.  I felt I was going to power wash the apron in front of the cabin with the new water pressure.  A significant improvement.

CABIN 1.9: NEW WINDOWS

One of the goals before the snow fell this winter was to get the exterior envelope modified to receive new windows.  The original configuration of windows and doors is shown below.

Original South Elevation (Deck)

Original East Elevation

Original West Elevation

The existing windows were poorly performing double glazed vinyl - depending on where you looked.  The windows on the east side were single glazed aluminum framed windows.  The doors were single glazing - if glass remained in the doors.

When I talk about the building envelope and windows there are several factors affecting the envelope.  First, I basically gutted the interior.  I removed all the drywall and old insulation.  The insulation needed to be removed as there was plenty of evidence of rodents and this needed to be addressed.  

Removing the insulation allowed for an inspection of the existing construction in order to develop a strategy for tightening the envelope.  In an earlier post I demonstrated the nature of the envelope and I believe I compared it to a giant sieve.  

So the windows are a part of the strategy to tighten this structure up.

Realizing I had a fairly short window to order, receive and install windows I had to make some decisions on window type and supplier.  I sought pricing from two window companies I have used in the past and - in this case - took the low price.  But let's understand what that meant.

The window specification was a high performance window.  Low U value, a reasonable SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) and a trustworthy manufacturer and as much VT (visible  transmission of light) through the windows as I could get.

We ordered our windows from Milgard.  The windows are a high performance fiberglass triple glazed window.  U=.31 / SHGC = .24 / VT=.40.  I used three types of windows:  fixed, casement and awning.  The windows were selected and sized to respond to the structure, promote natural ventilation and views.

The windows were ordered in early September and the fun began.  The framing occurred while we were making the site ready for the excavation, removing trees and cutting steel, so there was a fair amount of activity.

I started on the East side and went around the building.  The entire elevation of the vestibule (East side) got re-framed.  I installed two windows (saved from the trailer) and re-located the door to the center of the elevation to help with the structural work to support the new roof ridge beam that was installed.

As a side note, the windows I saved from the trailer turn out to have been manufactured by Milgard.  I tracked the manufacturing numbers down and found them to be double glazed, low-e glazing in good condition.  Since the vestibule is ultimately going to be a greenhouse / airlock / storage area the re-purposing of the windows was very appropriate.

Re-Framing in Progress.

The bathroom and bedroom then received new openings for the new windows and a new exterior door while the old windows were removed, and those openings re-framed and covered.

West elevation with original window opening exposed.

When I got to the main area there were a few issues that required attention.  New openings were cut into the existing structure.  The new windows were sized to integrate with the existing structure, thus the pattern progression from small to large.  I utilized the existing opening and then expanded so that the log structure was minimally compromised.  The chain saw became an effective instrument of structural alteration.

The new framing was set into place with 5" long Simpson wood screws and construction adhesive.  The new window at the center of the roof gable aligned with the original window I discovered and exposed.  The window alignment allowed for structural framing to help support the structure of the new roof ridge beam and was ultimately tied together with a 10' long Simpson steel strap tie on either side adding structural integrity to the assembly.

Openings were cut and set for eight new windows in the main area - and a new door on the South to the deck.

The framing took about about five weeks.  It was what I call surgical framing.  Custom cuts, custom sizing to accommodate the existing framed openings that were closed up and the integration of the new framing with existing framing.  It didn't take an awful lot of material.  It took a lot of time to surgically alter the envelope.

The openings were ready to receive the windows when they arrived in late October.  The windows were installed in one weekend with the exception of the high gable end windows which were installed on a warm Saturday afternoon with the help of my labor pal Jason.

West elevation with new rough openings completed

So, in early November the openings had been completed windows were installed and a sense of accomplishment was temporarily acknowledged.  I beat the snow.

New windows at the West Elevation

New windows at South and East Elevation

A few observations and comments:

• The cabin became noticeably quieter when the new windows were installed.  Triple glazed windows eliminate a lot of outside noise.
• The new views are great and the space is much lighter.  The original windows in the main area had very low head heights.  With increased head heights and openings there is more natural daylight and the views to the South and West are really great - significantly better than the original space.
• The window ventilation is great. The high awning windows at the gables move a lot of air without making the space feel drafty.  This is a very successful effort to naturally ventilate the space.

I'll talk about the rest of the envelope work in a subsequent post.

SITE 1.9 - THE GARDEN PORTAL

The best part of winding the year up was the raising of the garden portal.  

As I have noted in previous posts, we are striving for sustainability on a lot of fronts.  I currently have an overflowing box of old nails, screws and fasteners I have kept while de-constructing the cabin interiors.  I am keeping track of the weight for future reporting purposes.

Part of our effort is the artistic side of the sustainability effort:  The garden portal.

Moving the steel

After some discussion our excavator - Matt Johnson - Johnson Excavating and Telecommunications of Eagle - determined the mini-ho would be the machine to move the steel - with help from the architect guiding it to its final location.  

And so on a reasonably warm late fall Friday morning we began the process.  

It involved moving the steel to previously dug holes for the main uprights,   I built a steel re-bar cage for each vertical leg and attached it prior to setting the steel in the holes.

Re-bar cages at the portal base with Matt Johnson supervising.

Temporary support of the portal

Once the steel was set in the holes and after the crew was fed a grilled burger and sides from the on-site grilling device we proceeded to pour the concrete foundation.  Rather than bring in a concrete truck we (Johnson Excavating, Hedrick Concrete Construction, and Ago Studios) mixed and poured 1-1/2 pallets of quik-crete bags in the holes.  It was a well orchestrated operation.  Matt cut the bags and poured them into the wheelbarrow.  Ron Hedrick and I than mixed the concrete and poured it in - 3 bags of concrete at a time.  We were done in about an hour...and it was a good pour.

Ron Hedrick of Hedrick Construction - Chris Green - Ago Studios after the pour.

To be sure everything set well and safely we left the mini-ho support of the portal in place for the weekend while the concrete cured and set.   I calculated that we poured about 2 yards of concrete at the portal.  It isn't going anywhere.

So as we move into 2014, the garden portal is in place ready to receive the fencing, gate assembly and to signify we are getting closer to getting onto the site.  

One of the best comments I fielded from one of the business folks in the town that came to visit was something along the lines of...'what the heck is that...it's like burning man!'.  

I'll take it.

...and as we exited 2013 the portal (re-purposed mobile home steel structure) stands on the site ready for duty!

Here's to 2014!

SITE 1.8: UTILITIES - WELCOME TO THE 21ST CENTURY

We completed the work on utility infrastructure by installing new electrical and communications conduits.

A new utility junction box was installed on the utility pole by our utility provider that will allow for new conductors to be installed from that junction box underground to the cabin and the new residence - two services. 

Additionally communications conduits were installed to provide flexibility in future communications links providing options for cable / internet / connectivity for both the cabin and new residence.

So the strategy was to provide one electrical conduit to the cabin, rough-in one conduit for connection to the new residence.  Communications conduits were installed from the phone pedestal at the street to rough-in to the new residence and also the cabin.  Conduits were also laid to the cabin to accommodate satellite cable access or pole mounted communications lines.

Finally - as the last portion of the work - we laid a water line for a future hose bibb in the new garden area.

This was a major effort to upgrade the utility infrastructure for the site and prepare for future construction and systems.  

Conduit sizes were coordinated with utility providers, code requirements with electrical conductor sizes and communications cabling.

The idea was to think ahead toward future communications needs and provide a reasonable number of options to help accommodate current and possible future needs to the degree we are able.

The garden portal is next.

SITE 1.7: UTILITIES

We have completely overhauled the site utilities.  In the previous post I noted the new water line.  In this post I'll discuss both the new sewer lines.  The next post will discuss the electrical and communications infrastructure.

Now...I know this will expose my incredible grasp of the obvious...but there are a lot of piping, construction, and other assorted assemblies that have been built outside of the permitting process.  This cabin is no different.  In fact I am quite sure that nothing in the cabin and on the site was originally built with a permit.  I have pulled permits for building, plumbing and electrical.

That said, the original sewer line that served the cabin was done in the same vein.  I had the sewer line scoped a year ago in order to understand what we had.  Why?  It turned out no one had a real clear idea where the existing sewer line was...and that can be problematic.

I had the site surveyed in order to really understand the topography and the property line relationships, setbacks and planning criteria for the new home we are planning on constructing. Getting accurate utility locations on the survey was important for me for planning purposes.  It should be for anyone.

When you purchase an old property there will be surprises and the sewer line was the big surprise.  The sewer line was a 4" thin wall (really cheap) pvc pipe buried anywhere between 2' and 3' below the ground.  There were multiple breaks in the line and the tree roots had successfully invaded the pipe cavity requiring us to water jet the line to get it to a point of temporary usability.  It was a long private line that went down the street about 1-1/2 blocks tying into the Town system at that point. 

When we scoped the old line we were able to document the location and transfer that location to the survey.  (I would recommend PSI in Avon, CO for this type of work - Aiden was great)

Aiden scoping the existing sewer line - spring 2012

The evaluation of the system set into place a number of discussions with the Town regarding the existing system.  Turns out there were a couple of issues that impacted the direction we finally chose.  

First:  Our line was one of several in the town that were considered orphan lines.  These lines were never correctly connected to the town lines, were non-compliant with existing standards, and the town knew of their existence.

Second:  The town indicated there was the possibility of new sewer work being done in the neighborhood to address this situation and a few others within the same couple of blocks.

Fast forward to October, 2013...and new sewer line here we go.

The new line is a schedule 35 pvc pipe with welded joints to meet Town of Eagle code requirements.  Welding in this instance means the joints are glued together (welded) with pvc cement.  Why welded joints?  Welding the joints together means the tree roots cannot infiltrate the pipe unless there is a break in the line.  We went right by one of the elms on site and elms have very invasive root systems.

New trench and existing elm tree

One of the considerations in line placement was the location in relation to tree roots.  Why is this important?  My landscape architect colleague Terrill Samura of Samura & Associates has -  during the course of working with him over time - educated me on tree roots.  As a result I generally get site surveys that document the drip lines of trees because that is usually the outer reach of the tree roots.  

In our case the new sewer line ran adjacent to a beautiful elm tree that we quite enjoy now that we have taken down the trailer.  I field adjusted the location of the sewer line and staked the general location of the new line so it would have a minimal impact on the tree roots because we were digging down 4 1/2 feet which would sever important roots if we got to close to the core of the tree.  We want to keep this tree and want it to be happy.

With the town bringing the new sewer line in this allowed us to bring lines from the street to both the cabin and the rough-in for the new residence.  The lines were buried to at least 4' below grade and the grade set for a gravity flow down hill from each structure.  Stuff flows down hill you know.

New SDR 35 sewer lines

The Town of Eagle Public Works Department has been outstanding to work with.  Probably doesn't hurt I am an architect with site planning knowledge.  Never-the-less, they were great.  The planning was excellent, communications outstanding, and executing was very smooth.  Compliments to them for a very professional project.

Finally, and once again, the planning of the crawl space excavation at the cabin paid of in spades.  I located the entry point for the excavator on the exterior of the cabin.  He was able to quickly bring the line into the cabin.  Access from the inside of the cabin to set entry points, and access the pipe was spot on.  No problems.

So we now have a new code compliant 4" sewer line from the cabin.  All that is left to do is hook up the waste line inside the cabin to use the system.

Yippee!

SITE 1.6: SITE UTILITIES - WATER

Every now and then a serendipitous collision of timing, opportunity and planning occurs in a construction project.  This happened within the last couple of months and we seized the opportunity.

We replaced the old galvanized water supply to the cabin with a gleaming new 1" copper water line.

The old water line was 3/4" in diameter.  It was  in the ground for at least 30 years if not longer - we don't know.  I think it was older than that.  

Our excavator (really good - Johnson Excavating - Eagle, CO) pointed out a break in the old line he found about 40' from the cabin as the new trench was being created.  

Not only did we have a break in the line, the line at the street meter was 50% clogged up with corrosion and stuff.  

So the water pressure we were getting at the cabin was compromised at the meter by 50% and at the break in the line by an unknown percentage.  We were probably getting 30% of the water flow we should have been getting.

I was asked what kind of water line I wanted into the cabin.  My choices were copper or a poly pipe.  The poly pipe was the less expensive option...but....

When I investigated further the differences between the two one particular fact made the decision easy.  The excavator and the town public works folks both indicated the poly was a good system with one exception:  it has a tendency to not hold a connection at the street.  What this really means is that the water main to street connection can fail, or become loose causing water to flow through the connection, into the dirt, causing all kinds of problems.

...and with my luck it would happen when the weather was below zero requiring additional funds to re-hire the excavator to dig down and re-connect the line.  

The question I asked myself:  Why would I put a pipe in with this connection?  I don't want to buy a problem because I saved $300 in materials.  

Copper connections are solid, time tested, cost a little more, and generally don't fail.  SOLD.

The new water main in the crawl space.

 One of the cool aspects of this project was doing all the planning, digging in the crawl space, and prep and then seeing all that pay off.

The pipe came right through into the crawl, exactly where planned with no issues.  Exactly the way we wanted it.

The next day, the plumber (Tim Burch - Burch Plumbing - Avon) came in and in five hours set new valves, the water meter, drain back connections and re-connected the existing lines and roughed in a line for a new water heater and a line to connect to the new bathroom and a new 3/4" water supply for the future garden water supply.

Once the plumbing was complete I turned on the hose bibb at the cabin and it felt like I was opening the line on a pressure washer.

Mission accomplished.